At the beginning of 2019, I had this wild idea to take time off work, pack up the Westy, and take off with Stone to Yellowstone. I had enough vacation time saved up. Stone had been potty trained (BIG WIN). The Westy was running like a champ.
But ultimately prepping for a trip such as this can be stressful. There were so many details to remember. So many to do lists to tackle. So many times to coordinate. I requested the time off months before our projected August 9th departure.
The first task was replacing the fuel lines and fuel filter in Sweet Cream. Those Westfalias…it’s a love/hate relationship. Stock Westfalias are notorious for catching on fire via their fuel systems. This honestly should have been my first update when I got the van. I didn’t know if the lines were original from 1989, how old they were, or if the clamps were appropriate. The original rubber lines were created with old gas in mind. Now, newer gases with ethanol corrode rubber lines leading to leaks and fire hazards galore.
Stone and I took a trip up to Auto Sport Imports, just outside of SeaTac, to collect some parts. About $85 later we had a Bosch fuel filter, German hoses, injector seals, and what seemed like a million screw clamps and specialty crimp clamps for the lines.
And here we began the lifelong learning process of this Westy. Shit gets so specific. It’s a science and an art. Those specialty clamps were created to ensure that there is equal amounts of pressure on the entire 360 degrees of the hose. Most clamps result in a flattened area along the hose which can mean uneven wear over time. We dropped off Sweet Cream to my mechanic, Eddie, so he could work his magic. He’s amazing and always looks out for me. As much as I would love doing all this work on my own, realistically it’s not possible. Working full time, building a business, and solo parenting doesn’t give me a lot of free time that isn’t dedicated to sleep and hygiene. Let’s be real here.
Eddie called me up when she was done. He also informed me that she would need a new fuel tank soon. Add it to the list. Westfalias also have shitty fuel tanks that separate over time due to age, rust, whatever. The fuel system felt great though. The issues I had with possible vapor lock or that feeling like my fuel would cut out disappeared. Eddie assured me that I would be fine for the trip. I planned to buy a new tank for Christmas then install it.
I traded my truck for the Westy so Eddie could do my brakes and give the truck a general check up while we were gone. As we drive home, I was relishing in the new feel of my van. There’s something about new parts and updates, like giving new life into something that has been dormant for too long. I was thankful she was running strong. And even more thankful that she didn’t catch on fire in the middle of the Nevada desert.
Then the details – packing for two for two weeks on the road. Fully camping. No hotels. Various weather conditions. And to find storage for it all in the van.
I bought a Yeti cooler at the REI in Bellingham. I was already in the area, and I’m a picky bitch that wanted the desert sand color. That weekend I had gone to two concerts back to back, one Friday and one Saturday. I stayed up north in Burlington Friday night (thanks handsome) and hit up Bellingham the following morning. I had wanted a Yeti for years, but the minimum $200 price tag always terrified me. I figured it would be an item I would use for life so I splurged. I also got some Prana leggings with pockets!! Aahhh-mazing.
Back home I plotted out the items Stone and I would need – first aid, versatile clothing, hygiene necessities. I probably over packed, especially for Stone. We basically lived in fleece pullovers and shorts for several days and bundled up in blankets when it got a bit cold. But the mom in me was predicting major messes, jumping in mud puddles, spilt food and juice, and general dirt from hiking.
We packed up our items, stopped for gas and ice, and made our way south on I5.
As we got close to the Washington/Oregon border, we took that familiar turn onto Hwy 14 East, hugging the Columbia River to Skamania County. Lisa was camp hosting at Panther Creek Campgrounds again. This would be her last year hosting as the overseeing company had changed their employment policies resulting is more work for less pay. Even if you love the outdoors and meeting PCT hikers, you should still get paid good money to clean up shit. Literal shit.
Lisa had her niece and nephew camping with her for the weekend. Stone took a few minutes to warm up and get acclimated to his new environment. After that he was running around in the woods, playing on the hammocks around the campground, and building car ramps in the dirt. My boy…
Lisa got a fire going and we had the typical campsite dinner – hotdogs and s’mores! Stone got to try cooking his dinner for the first time and try out his camp chair I bought for him on our Oregon beach trip.
Stone went to bed as soon as the sun went down. While he slept, I stayed up with Lisa sharing a smoke and our summertime stories. Two of her friends who are also camp hosts stopped by to chat and vent about their new management. I knew I would have a long drive ahead the next day, so I took another quick hit and got into bed myself.
Sleeping in the van with a toddler is equal parts comfortable and annoying. While I don’t mind snuggling (and Stone is definitely a snuggler), I also like being able to stretch out. The van doesn’t offer that much room. But we made it work for the night, and I work up at the crack of dawn to chirping birds and people beginning their day.
Stone and I planned on having breakfast with Lisa. We didn’t plan on gaining three new friends. Lisa invited three guys that were thru hiking the PCT (Pacific Crest Trail). She made everyone pancakes and basically told these guys they had to eat before the set off north to finish the Washington section of the trail. If you don’t know much about the PCT, here’s a quick synopsis. The PCT is a 2653 mile trail running from the border of Mexico to the border of Canada via California, Oregon, and Washington. Most of the trail runs through complete wilderness – full mountain ranges and summits, desert conditions, snow fields. To thru hike is a four to six month commitment.
So back to breakfast. These guys were sitting on a log, eating their pancakes, and Stone bonded with them so quickly. They were playing soccer together, eating grapes that Stone kept getting from the van, and laughing with their whole beings. I sat back with my camp coffee and just smiled. This was definitely the motivation I needed before our long drive into Idaho.
I talked with Lisa about checking out a lesser known park – the Craters of the Moon. Given our loose time line and keeping the van at a low mph, we both decided it was worth the route. We said our goodbyes, packed up, and hit the road. About 20 minutes down Hwy 14, we crossed the Hood River Bridge into Oregon. Stone and I surprised his great aunt while she was working the cash register at the local Wal-Mart. He got cookies of course and we set off.
Sadly (or gladly) we didn’t make it to Idaho that evening. Driving down I-84 was a lot of work. Sweet Cream had to deal with other folks driving 90mph passing her, severe cross winds, and rolling hills that forced us to drive 45mph in a 60mph zone. We made it to Baker City, OR and I opted for a hotel room. I knew that we would be shower free and internet free for the next week. The hotel was a nice splurge. We ate dinner, vegged out on TV, slept soundly, and even got free breakfast the next morning.
The Craters of the Moon Monument and Preserve visitor center is located 18 miles southwest of Arco, Idaho on U.S. Highway 20/26/93. Even miles before you see the visitor center, the landscape drastically changes. Trees turn into sage brush and lava fields. Grass turns into pumice stone and ash.
The area formed during eight major eruptive periods between 15,000 and 2000 years ago. Along the Great Rift, a series of cracks in the earth, you can see lava flows that have stretched from 52 miles to cover 618 square miles. Tension along nearby mountain ranges can cause volcanic activity, causing tectonic plates to stretch and open a pathway for magma to surface. According to the National Park Service, the Craters region has an eruption roughly every 2000 years.
We pulled into the visitor center, had a quick bathroom break, and checked out their book selection. Stone got a book about volcanoes which would begin his trip long (and year long) obsession with volcanoes. We drove down to the campgrounds, paid $15 for a site, and set up camp.
There is a lot this place has to offer even though it appears desolate and small. You can drive the 7 mile scenic loop, hike several quick trails, or go caving with the right permits. Stone and I did a quick drive and hiked to a few spots. We saw massive collapsed cinder cones. Marveled at the tenacity of tiny wildflowers growing through the volcanic rock. And ran and climbed on everything.
After exploring, we made dinner and watched a movie as the sun went down. This is when the park really became exciting. Bats. And a full moon. There’s such minimal sky pollution this far into the wilderness. And the moon shown so bright I didn’t need a flashlight to get around at night. As Stone was sleeping, I sat outside and watched the bats flying around our campsite. All I could hear was flapping and squeaking. If bats aren’t your thing, this may not be the spot for you.
Additionally, if you ARE into this sort of thing, and want to see bats in their habitat, know that you have to go caving with caution. On behalf of the bats. In 2005, a deadly fungus called P. destructans was introduced to bat populations across the United States. As a result, over 7 million bats have died from what we call white-nose syndrome. Humans are not susceptible but can carry the fungus from place to place, especially if they are around caves more often than the normal person. The park now has a screening process for issuing caving permits so be prepared to answer questions about your outdoor experiences since 2005.
The next morning we would get ready for our big journey to the Grand Tetons and Jackson, Wyoming. Then Yellowstone.
