This volcanic crater lake in south-central Oregon is the only national park in Oregon. It is the deepest lake in the United States, and the ninth deepest in the world.
I always knew I wanted to visit Crater Lake, but there needed to be more planning on my part due to the distance from my home. Crater Lake is about 80 miles northeast of the town of Medford. That translates into a six-hour drive from my home. In March of 2022, I did some research online at www.travelcraterlake.com, booked a couple nights in July for camping, and saved a list of hikes on my AllTrails app. I figured with my hysterectomy scheduled for April 5, I needed to plan out my trips before trying to plan them under the fog of painkillers. And July would be three months post-op which seemed like enough time to heal before a 3-day camping trip.
Once every major detail was booked, I asked my friend Sara if she wanted to go with us. It’s easier to handle long road trips when you have good company, and Sara and I have gotten along great on other camp trips in the past. She agreed and we made a plan to meet at my house on Sunday morning to start our drive. After packing my RAV4 (and a coffee stop), we were on our way south on I-5!
Salt Creek Falls
We made it to our only hike of the day just over an hour after leaving Eugene. We stopped at the Natural Grocers store to get any last-minute groceries and provisions we might need for dinner and snacks for the next few days. Mainly some fresh fruit, veggies, and jerky. Salt Creek Falls is located in the Willamette Forest off Hwy 58. The out and back one mile trail is a great way to get some fresh air and stretch your legs after spending half the day in a car.
There are a few viewpoints for the falls as you start out on the trail. In the first quarter mile or so, there is an overlook with amazing views of the falls and surrounding forest. As we continued on closer to the falls, we realized that we had reached a point of decision. There is a point at which the maintained trail ends, but you can try to navigate the rocks down to the base of the falls. Someone even provided a rope that was tied to a tree stump to help climb down. As Stone and I cautiously and slowly made our way closer to the falls, I could see his confidence start to diminish. He told me that he felt more comfortable staying up by the bigger rocks since he couldn’t get his footing right on the loose gravel. Sara agreed to stay with him while I used the rope to lower myself down to the water.
As much as I tried, I didn’t make it all the way. I saw a few folks that did, but I made the mistake of wearing sandals. I bought a pair of Tevas with no fabric straps thinking I could use them while kayaking or checking out riverbeds and coastlines. But these Tevas were no match for the sharp (I’m guessing basalt) rocks. I found a good stopping point to sit and take in the experience – the cool mist, the hot sun shining down, and the roar of the falls – before going back up. The rope was a must have to get back up the steep climb. I found Stone and Sara waiting for me where I had left them. Sara got some hilarious photos of me climbing down to the falls. We chatted with a few other folks that were also contemplating going down then made our way back to the car and back to driving. We still had a two-hour drive to our campsite.
Crater Lake
We pulled into the Crater Lake north entrance with plenty of daylight to check out the views and set up our tents. I had booked us two nights at Mazama Campground located a short 8 minutes (7 miles) from the Rim Village along the Crater Lake Rim Drive/Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway. As we drove around the rim of Crater Lake, we soon realized there are no bad views of this colossal lake. Each stop appeared just as breathtaking as the next. Our poor phones memory capacity took a major hit here. We wanted to take it all in but also knew that we needed to set up camp and get a full night of rest so that we could take full advantage of the next day.
The Mazama Campground is part of the Mazama Village – a seasonal resort with cabins, a restaurant and gift shop, convenience store, and gas pumps. I stopped by the convenience store to buy some ice and firewood. The staff there were super friendly and full of useful info on nearby trails and the best spots to catch a sunset. The convenience store had pretty much anything you could need as a tent, car, or RV camper.
As the sun started going down, we decided it was actually time to throw up the hammock and tents and make dinner. Over dinner we discussed possibilities for the next day. We didn’t want to overdo the day since we knew that watching the sunset over the lake was a must, and we wanted to be energized enough to enjoy the full show. Sara and I decided to hit up a short trail in the morning to get our legs and lungs working. After that, we could drive the circumference of the lake to figure out the best point to watch the sunset. I also wanted to be sure to stop by the Rim Village to get any souvenirs and start Stone on their Junior Ranger Program. It’s been a great addition to our camp trips to ensure that Stone feels included and can earn a reward for learning about the parks we visit as well as the tenets of Leave No Trace. We planned to take our jet boils and meals with us too so that we could enjoy dinner with the show.
Godfrey Glen Trail
After coffee and a quick breakfast, we started our day on the Godfrey Glen Trail. The trailhead is located off Munson Valley Rd, just a few minutes from Mazama Village. The Godfrey Glen Trail is a well maintained, easy one-mile loop through a forest of firs and hemlocks located between two deep canyons. While it doesn’t seem as awe inspiring as massive waterfalls or grand sweeping vistas, this trail holds its own in time, and you can find a paper trail guide at the trail head explaining the history and formation of the canyon. The trail offers views of the glen and the “Pinnacles” or fossil fumaroles. These fumaroles formed when Mount Mazama erupted, as hot gasses bubbled up through the freshly deposited layers of andestic scoria and ash. The walls of the fumaroles cemented through a combination of heat and chemical changes under these layers. Over time erosion would carve away the layers showcasing these pinnacles.
It’s a geologist’s and volcanologist’s dream.
I’m not sure if any readers here are big art history fans, or if folks have studied art history in school or for fun. I don’t imagine history is super exciting for a lot of people. But these formations remind me of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona, designed by Antoni Gaudi. He is one of my all-time favorite architects and artists that adapted the language of nature (trees and bones for example) into architectural design.
Discovery Point Trail
After Godfrey Glen, we made our way to the Rim Village and the Visitor Center. We shopped for a few souvenirs, our usual magnet and postcards. I found a shirt with a map of the lake on the back that was probably overpriced, but I really liked the simple style. Stone got a pair of binoculars, a few stickers, and the booklet to start earning his Junior Ranger badge.
Discovery Point Trail starts at the Rim Village behind the cafe and gift shop. For 2.4 miles it follows the edge of the lake and combines with the Pacific Crest Trail. It’s still a trail I dream about doing but it won’t happen for a long time. I think once Stone turns eighteen, I may be able to. But by then I will be fifty. I suppose that’s not too old… optimistically.
The trail is easy to follow with only 337 feet of elevation change. We found cool spots to take photos, ate a packed lunch, and marveled at how dusty we all became. Stone got to use his binoculars to look for wildlife and watch the small boats that were traveling back and forth from Wizard Island to the boat launch at Cleetwood Cove. There are boat tours of Crater Lake that circle the perimeter of the lake and get you closer to Wizard Island and the Phantom Ship. These tours will run you $44 for adults and $30 for children. Children under 2 are not allowed on the tours. Also, you will need to plan for the hike down and back on the Cleetwood Cove Trail, a 2.2 round trip trail from the rim to the water. It can be a strenuous hike due to the elevation. It’s a long way down to that water.
It’s amazing to think about how Crater Lake came to exist in its current state. Long ago, it was known as Mount Mazama, part of the Cascade Range of volcanic mountains. Approximately 7,700 years ago, the 12,000 ft mountain violently erupted, blasting roughly 12 cubic miles of debris, and collapsing the central structure of Mount Mazama. What was left was a caldera roughly 5-6 miles wide and 0.7 miles deep. After the caldera formed, smaller eruptions formed what we now call Wizard Island to grow. There are also three other smaller volcanoes under the water. That’s so wild to me. Three other volcanoes completely hidden by this deep blue water. There appears to even be hydrothermal activity still present in the lake. Will Crater Lake erupt again? Side note: I watched the National Geographic documentary “Fire of Love” about the volcanologist couple Katia and Maurice Krafft. Highly recommend watching!
Scientists estimate that it took 720 years to fill the lake to its current depth. Since there are no rivers or streams that lead to this lake, it was filled through rain and snow melt. This adds to the clarity of the water and the awe of how 4.9 trillion gallons of water can exist in this space.
After completing our walk around the rim, we decided it would be best to relax at our campsite for the afternoon so that we would feel rested enough to drive to a few different spots along the Rim Drive. Stone started right away on his Junior Ranger book. If you have children, I cannot say enough good things about the Junior Ranger program through the National Park Service. They have it divided into two groups based on age, and they welcome adults to help their kids out with the booklet. Activities are based on the history, geology, and wildlife of the park. Each park has a different book, and once kids complete their booklet, they get to do a pledge with a park ranger and receive their badge. Crater Lake didn’t have a fully open Visitors Center outside of the cafe and gift shop, so we had to send his booklet to them in the mail. But he got a handwritten letter from a ranger complimenting his work and a cool badge to add to his collection.
Once we felt rested, we loaded up our camp stoves and dinner meals into the car to drive around the remainder of the rim drive. We stopped at the Phantom Ship overlook and Vidae Falls before making our way to Cloudcap Viewpoint to watch the sunset.
The Phantom Ship Overlook is one of the best spots to view the Phantom Ship Island, a remnant of an ancient volcanic cone. At a glance, the island resembles a ghost pirate ship, hence the name. But in reality, the island was once a vent that fed Mount Mazama during its mountain building phase. Now, these rocks are the oldest in the basin at 400.000years old, lasting through the major eruption and collapse.
Vidae Falls is a 115-foot cascading waterfall located right off the East Rim Drive. We were the only people there viewing the falls. Stone explored the water at the bottom of the falls, but there are several chained off areas to remind people to not scramble to the top of the falls. While we were sitting there quietly enjoying the scenery, I saw a lone mule deer browsing for snacks. The quiet was interrupted by a group of younger guys that had stopped to see the falls. We decided it was time to get set up for our sunset dinner.
We made it to Cloudcap Overlook with plenty of space to park and lots of options to view the sunset. We weren’t the only ones out to see the show. Overtime, more and more people showed up ready to watch the sunset on the east side of the lake. When we exited the car, we realized that the area was covered in mosquitos. They seemed to congregate on my car, on the windshield, the open back hatch, out cooler and clothing. We quickly got back in the car and attempted to cover ourselves in whatever bug repellant we could find. I don’t often experience a lot of mosquitos or bugs while hiking and camping, so I don’t carry repellant all the time. We also threw on any clothing with long sleeves, full cover pants, and socks. This was both to prevent bug bites and to stay warm. Once covered, we got our camp stoves out and prepped dinner. I had the BEST dehydrated meal I have ever had, the Peak Refuel Coconut Chicken Curry. I feel like most dehydrated meals require extra seasoning and hot sauce. This needed nothing. And I scarfed it down quickly.
Sunset on Crater Lake was a visual reminder of the beauty of this sacred place. To imagine that 7,700 years ago, this was a mountain roughly 12,000 feet tall that erupted is mind blowing in person. Even knowing the original visitors of this land witnessed the eruption is mind blowing. Sandals and other objects belonging to the original inhabitants and visitors have been found buried in the layers of debris from the eruption. The Klamath people, descendants of the Makalak people, have told various oral stories of the eruption through time. The Umpqua people also have a similar version of the story with different spirits. The National Park Service/US Dept of the Interior has a brochure on the history of Crater Lake that details this story:
“The spirit of the mountain was called Chief of the Below World (Llao). The spirit of the sky was called Chief of the Above World (Skell). Sometimes Llao came up from his home inside the earth and stood on top of Mount Mazama, one of the highest mountains in the region. During one of these visits, he saw the Makalak chief’s beautiful daughter and fell in love with her. He promised her eternal life if she would return with him to his lodge below the mountain. When she refused, he became angry and declared that he would destroy her people with fire. In his rage, he rushed up through the opening of his mountain and stood on top of it and began to hurl fire down upon them. The mighty Skell took pity on the people and stood atop Mount Shasta to defend them. From their mountaintops, the two chiefs waged a furious battle. They hurled red hot rocks as large as hills. They made the earth tremble and caused great landslides of fire. The people fled in terror to the waters of Klamath Lake. Two holy men offered to sacrafice themselves by jumping into the pit of fire on top of Llao’s mountain. Skell was moved by their bravery and drove Llao back into Mount Mazama. When the sun rose next, the great mountain was gone. It had fallen in on Llao. All that remained was a large hole. Rain fell in torrents, filling the hole with water. This is now called Crater Lake.”
Before the lake got its current name, it was called Giiwas (“A Scared Place”) by the Native Americans who lived in this area. What we call Mount Mazama they called Moyaina which translates to “Big Mountain”. The lake was a sacred place for the members of many tribes. It was an area where they came to pray, grieve, and seek spiritual understanding.
The Klamath tribe has occupied the Klamath Basin for over 13,000 years, and the native inhabitants kept this sacred place a secret from explorers. As the US and Europeans moved west through the continent, it seems almost inevitable that this lake would be noticed. In the summer of 1853, three members of a mining party from Yreka, California stumbled upon the lake. When they returned to town, they reported their discovery of the lake. However, with no prospect of gold and no knowledge of the area, people forgot about the lake. By 1864, in an attempt to bring peace to relations among the tribes, ranchers and farmers, and the US administration, the Klamath, Murdoc, and Yahooskin Band of Northern Paiutes signed the Treaty of 1864 with the US Government. The tribes were to receive sovereignty over their nations and 2 million acres of land known as the Klamath Reservation in exchange for ceding more than 20 million acres of traditional lands in south-central Oregon and northeastern California. This reservation land was to include Giiwas. The US was also supposed to provide supplies for 15 years so that the tribes could become self-sufficient. These supplies did not come for several years, and when they did arrive, they were not distributed evenly or at all. The treaty failed. This would lead to an armed conflict between the Modoc people led by Kintpuash and the US Army. The documented history after the signing of the Treaty of 1864 shows that the US never held up their end of the agreement (as we see with the documented history of all treaties). The boundaries of the Klamath Reservation have been disputed since the treaty was signed. And over time, with the US realizing how the land could make them money through the sale of timber, the Dept of the Interior pushed forward a policy to liquidate all reservation land. The Klamath tribe lost all their land.
To be walking on this same place as those that witnessed the eruption 7,700 years ago or those that fought to keep their ancestral lands commands the utmost respect. You are walking on sacred ground. You are a visitor here in the truest sense. And if you show up with an open heart and an open mind, you will understand that sentiment and feeling. After watching the sunset until the sky grew dark. we drove back to camp and easily fell asleep.
Watchman Peak Trail
As usual, I woke up with the sunrise on our last morning at the park. After boiling water for some coffee and oatmeal (and making Stone get out of bed), I started packing up our camp site while Sara packed up her camp. We had decided that we would save Watchman Peak for our last day since it was on our drive out of the park.
The Watchman Peak Trail is a 1.7 out and back trail that ascends about 400 feet, giving spectacular views of the lake below. This is a prime spot to watch the sunrise or the sunset with its wide, doable switchbacks and well-maintained path. Just remember to bring a head lamp for the appropriate times.
We got to the 75% filled parking lot just before 10am. We made sure our water bottles were filled and set off. Stone wanted to lead the way for the majority of our hike, and for the most part he did. I made him get between Sara and myself while walking through the one snowy section so that we could be there to help him in case he slipped downhill or felt unsure of his footing. Otherwise, he was a champion – taking breaks where he needed them, finding shady spots to protect himself from the sun, and managing the switchbacks like we have practiced repeatedly. I raced past him and Sara to catch his reaction when we neared the top.
And the reaction to this view… it’s breathtaking. From the peak, you get a full 360 view of the lake and the surrounding landscape including the Umpqua National Forest, Mount Bailey, Mount Thielsen, Diamond Peak, Mount Scott, Garfield Peak, and Mount McLoughlin. And on a clear day, you can even see Mount Shasta. This vantage point also offers excellent views of the different coves and gives you a better understanding of just how deep Crater Lake is.
Stone enjoyed climbing on the rock platform surrounding the old fire lookout. He had me read each information plaque and explain what they were describing. One plaque explained the process of measuring the depth of the lake in 1866. A group of US Geological Survey reps led by Clarence Dutton set out to determine the depth of the lake. The first expedition went out in a rowboat with a lead weight and piano wire and did 168 measurements. Over time, and with lots of different groups utilizing technology of their time, Crater Lake was measured at a final depth of 1,949 feet in the summer of 2000. You can read more about the history of mapping Crater Lake on the USGS website.
At the fire lookout, there are a couple infomation plaques. One labels the peaks that you can see in the distance. The other describes the history of measuring the depth of the lake. And another states the science behind why the lake appears as such a deep blue color. The combination of depth, clarity, temperature, and light are what give the lake its beautiful color. Sunlight reflects off the small particles in the water, scattering the light but also reflecting it back in a wavelength that our eye perceives as blue. The extreme depth, clarity, and cold temperature prevents the lake from absorbing as much light so what we see if the deepest blue reflected.
We took in the last of the views and made our way back to the trailhead. About halfway down, I realised that I had forgotten my water bottle at the fire lookout. Sara and Stone continued on while I ran back up to retrieve it. I was definitely sweating by that point. As I came back down on my own, I got to slow my pace and notice the smaller details – a family from another country (was climbing to the top of the ice field to slide down and these western pasque flower seed heads that look like mini truffula trees.
Toketee Falls
We left Crater Lake and decided to make one more stop at Toketee Falls. The falls are located about an hour northwest of Crater Lake in the Umpqua National Forest. The falls are probably on of the most famous waterfalls in Oregon. Basalt cliffs frame this two-tiered waterfall as it plunges 85 feet into a crystal blue pool.
The 0.9 hike follows the North Umpqua River with dozens of stairs up and down that follow the terrain. We eventually came to an overlook platform with a stunning view of the falls. The platform and surrounding stairways are lined with chain link fencing to protect you from falling into the rocky river’s edge. At the platform though, we could see that folks had bent the chain link fencing in order to descend into the falls. While this was tempting for me, the way down requires some knowledge of rock scrambling. And there is no rope here. So protect yourself and the natural area if you do decide to venture down there.
We continued our journey home, slightly hungry and fully tired but fully restored in our spirits. I followed the Rogue-Umpqua National Scenic Byway back to Interstate 5. This scenic byway stretches through 172 miles of forest with the Upper Rogue River, North Umpqua River, Diamond Lake, and the Cascade Mountains. Several years ago, I had a dream of backpacking 40 miles along the Rogue River. Maybe one day I will get back to that dream…or maybe I can get Stone on board with a backpacking trip. He would probably love it. A lot of my backpacking dreams were put on hold after having a child. We stopped in Eugene again so that I could grab a coffee and a snack and for one final bathroom break before we hit the interstate. Once we got to I-5, it was the usual pavement. We did make a stop in Woodburn for the outlet malls since Oregon has no sales tax…and we needed a break for both dinner and some retail therapy. The biggest reason was so Stone could get some kid Crocs and charms since I had wanted to get him a pair for months.
