For the month of January, I wanted to keep our travels a little close to home but still far enough out to feel like we were on a vacation. I had never been to Lake Quinalt, only driven past it on the way back from the Hoh Rainforest years ago. Felt like now was the right time to check it out.
I searched online for different hotels and lodges to get us a room. While I love camping, I don’t love camping when the temps get down to 30 degrees. There were several options available including the historic Lake Quinalt Lodge and the Rainforest Resort Village. I opted for something on the cheap side (comparatively) at the Quinalt River Inn. We got a simple room with a mini fridge and cable TV. I wasn’t sure what we would have until we got there.
To get to Lake Quinalt from my place, you take I-5 to hwy 101 . The 101 loops the entire Olympic Peninsula so depending on which part of the Peninsula you want to get to, you will have to decide if you want to travel along the West side or the East side of the Peninsula. The Westside will lead you to rocky beaches, the Hoh Rainforest, Sol Duc Falls, and Lake Quinalt. My google maps took me west to Montesano and then through some backroads (Wynoochee Valley and Wishkah) to get to the 101. We arrived at Lake Quinalt with enough daylight to hike a few short trails and check out the lake before getting checked in to our room.
I decided to drive along South Shore Road to find a place to get snacks and have a bathroom break. It should be noted that many of the bathrooms in this area were closed to the public both due to Covid and the off season. There’s a blessing to getting out in the off season in that there is less traffic and fewer people on the trails. But that also means there are fewer places open and fewer accessible bathrooms. We relied on a lot of honey buckets during our trip. We stopped at the Rainforest Resort store, and Stone got to meet a small puppy that belonged to the manager. She was super playful and “sooooo cute”. His words. We found some snacks to enjoy at our next stop.
Merriman Falls is located right off the road about 6.5 miles down S Shore Rd. There’s no hike required to get to the falls. We parked at a muddy pull out to check out the falls. The falls drop about 40 feet, cascading over mossy rocks and tree logs covered in ferns and rocks. Stone stayed at the base of the falls, collecting rocks and sticks, while I climbed maybe 20 feet to a small pool halfway up the falls. He looked so small from that height. I mainly had him stay behind because the moisture and moss on the rocks made the climb slippery. We were the only ones checking out this spot so I felt safe letting him stay on the lower ground.
We finished up at the falls and drove back towards the Quinalt Lodge to walk a few short trails near the lake. The Big Sitka Spruce Tree Trail turned out to be one of Stone’s favorite moments on our trip. This is a quick 0.4 mile trail with no elevation that leads to the world’s largest spruce, measuring at 18’9″ across and 191′ tall. The tree is estimated to be over 1000 years old and is one of the Quinalt Valley’s six champion trees. It’s pretty amazing to see the size of these trees in comparison to Stone’s size.
Along the trail, Stone explored the remnants of a hollowed out cedar tree (I think). He started describing how this hollow space could be a home, pointing out cool windows and doorways. But then he realized there was no room for a bed for him. Now I need to start looking at treehouse rentals for a weekend that are in my price range. Thankfully there are several within a 2 hour drive of our place.
We hopped back in the car and drove to the parking lot for the Quinalt Rainforest Nature Trail, a loop trail almost a mile long that takes you through the essence of a temperate PNW rainforest. There are massive fallen trees, nurse logs, ferns galore, and a myriad of mosses. Sadly it was too cold out for any smaller wildlife. We are still trying to find banana slugs in the wild.
Stone explored the fallen trees and root structures jutting out of the ground. We took a detour down the Quinalt Loop Trail to cross the bridge over Willaby Creek and check out the small rapids. Even through this section of the trail ran under the South Shore Rd, it felt like we were all alone in this hidden gem. There were no other people on the trail. All we heard were the sounds of the creek and our footsteps.
I took several photos of the creek, trying to find the best angle to catch the rapids further up. We continued on our hike, stopping to check out a hollowed out nurse log that had several saplings and small ferns. Stone could have fit inside the log but to save us from needing an outfit change, I told him to walk around instead of sliding through. He continued exploring the fallen trees eventually finding one that he could climb up. This one appeared to be a Douglas Fir based on it’s bark texture. Part of me wished the National Park service had labeled these fallen trees with their estimated height. Often times these trees were cut into sections to clear the trail after they had fallen. This nature trail did have several interpretive signs so that you can identify tree types or common fungi found in the forest. These kinds of trails have been instrumental in developing Stone’s appreciation and understanding of ecosystems and the interconnected aspect of the natural world.
We finished up the trail as the sun started to set. It was perfect timing for a perfect evening. I had wanted to spend our daylight hours exploring the area and end the evening with viewing the sunset on Lake Quinalt. We stopped back at the Rainforest Lodge and ordered food at the Salmon House Restaurant. I got the smoked salmon platter with cream cheese, crackers, and capers while Stone got his usual cheese burger and fries. While we waited for them to prepare our dinner, we sat in the back hatch of our car to watch the sunset. The sky filled with golds and yellows and roses, each minute changing to a new color palette. We decided to go closer to the shore to watch the show.
Sunsets are becoming a new favorite for Stone and some days the PNW comes through in big ways. The shore was quiet with only one other person sitting in a gravel spot taking in the view like us. Each time the sky changed colors, Stone and I would gasp in awe, and I would take what seemed like hundreds of photos – photos of the colors, photos of the reflection of the trees and the hills, and photos of him. I feel like these are one day going to be album covers for him (like Neil Young’s Harvest Moon). Or some bad ass senior photos. We walked back to the restaurant to get our food then made our way to our hotel room to eat, shower, and watch some tv before our next day at the beach.
The next morning we woke early to a cold frost covering everything. I de-eced our car and packed while Stone watched some morning cartoons. There are limited breakfast options near Quinalt unless you are staying at the lodge. I found the Internet Cafe online and learned that they allowed dining in during the pandemic. We turned in our keys, packed up the car, and headed out for breakfast. Stone had pancakes while I opted for eggs, toast, and hashbrowns. While it wasn’t fancy, it hit the spot. And I even got a mocha for the road.
Since it was a bit too cold and too early to start hiking the beach, I decided we could explore the North side of the lake. We set off for North Shore Rd, following it until it reached the Quinalt River bridge, connecting the North and South Shore Roads.
We made a stop at the July Creek Picnic area to get a view of the lake as the morning sun warmed the water, creating a slight fog that hovered above the lake. The picnic area was empty. We walked along the small trails, taking detours to the water. We found more giant fallen trees with trunks over 6 feet in diameter. I lifted Stone on top of the still standing stumps. He’s already small, but in that moment he seemed so tiny standing against the backdrop of earth and sky with these old giants.
We finished up at the picnic area and began our journey of the North shore. Pavement eventually gave way to gravel roads which eventually became dirt roads that followed the turns of the Quinalt River. I spotted a turn out with a possible path down to the river. We parked and checked out the rushing waters. Stone threw rocks while I soaked up the warmth of the sun and appreciated the clear skies and clear water. The river appeared to be coursing quickly, quick enough that it could wash us away if we got too close. We made sure to stay at a safe distance. But I was amazed at how clear the water was.
As we continued down this winding dirt road, I told Stone to keep an eye out for Roosevelt Elk. I didn’t expect us to see any, but as far as I could tell we were the only car headed to the end of the road. I camped one summer in the Hoh Rainforest several years back. One morning I awoke to a herd of elk passing our campsite to drink from the creek that ran directly behind our site. It was one of the coolest, most relaxing moments I have experienced outside. While we did see any elk on this day, we did see a few bald eagles attempt to fish in the river and post up on the surrounding trees.
After probably 45 minutes of driving, we came to the bridge over the Quinalt River. It was somewhat icy and empty of cars and people. I parked in the middle of the bridge to take a few quick photos before crossing to the South Shore Rd. We headed west passing the now familiar Rainforest Lodge and Quinalt Lodge again on our way to the coast.
Kalaloch is about a 35 minute drive from Lake Quinalt. When we arrived the chilly temps had increased to 60 degrees. We parked and followed the trail to the Tree of Life. This tree is also known as the Runaway Tree or the Kalaloch Tree. It is a Sitka spruce, the same species as the massive spruce we say the day before. Erosion has caused the tree to lose all its soil creating a cave under the tree and exposing nearly all of its roots. It clutches on to the coastal bluff. One day it will fall, but that appears to be part of it’s mystery and magic because it remains standing year after year.
Stone and I crossed over the driftwood to look into the cave underneath the tree. There is a small trickle of water from the bluff that falls directly under the tree. We took some photos and videos then cleared the area to allow for others to view this space. We spent some time playing on the beach and watching the waves come in. I had checked the tide map and knew that we missed low tide at 9am so we would not be able to check out the tide pools. Instead we made a track for Stone’s monster trucks in the sand and raced them then looked for shells, agates, and driftwood along the beach.
I had wanted to plan our day at the beach around being there for the sunset. We had so many hours left before the sunset would start so I searched for some stops we could visit in the meantime. I found that the world’s largest red cedar tree is located 8 minutes north of Kalaloch. Estimated to be over 1000 years old, this tree measures 178 feet tall and nearly 20 feet in diameter.
The trail to the tree isn’t so much a hiking trail as it is a forest road. I wasn’t sure where to park so we continued to drive up to nearly the tree itself. Stone took off running around the tree, finding ways to safely climb it. He’s small so he can’t climb much higher than a couple feet without a structure in place. He mainly explored the roots and bark. After spending maybe half an hour at the tree, we ran back to the car to make sure we could catch the sunset. I’m plugging in another Leave No Trace statement here because as I rounded the tree, I noticed there were a lot of brown napkins everywhere (like the kind you get at Taco Bell or something). Then I noticed a giant human shit. Like come on folks….. I warned Stone so he didn’t run right into it. There are little to no services in the Olympic Peninsula during the off months so you have to plan around that and now how to properly dispose of your waste. I will always refer people to the 7 Principles for getting outside. And these look different dependent on your outdoor area. And even more so when you are on sacred land (which is more often than you probably realize).
We got in the car and made our way to Ruby Beach. Ruby Beach is arguably one of the most beautiful beaches on the WA coastline, right behind La Push and Shi Shi Beach. To add to my pervious note about Indigenous lands, both those beaches are closed to the public due to the pandemic as they are home to the Quiluete and Makah nations. Their sovereignty and decision to protect their peoples far outweighs any desire to hike the beach. I think this is important to remember in any and all Indigenous lands as we are seeing more and more people disregard the wishes and needs of those who are the rightful stewards of the land. Looking at you Hawaii tourists and US military.
Stone and I walked along the beach as the tide was coming in. We weren’t able to fully explore the sea stacks and tide pools, but we could admire from afar. We looked for cool rocks, hoping to find some agates or beach glass. Little did I know that Stone was filling his pockets with white rocks and sand blasted shells. I found that out when I checked the cup holders in the back seat and they were all full.
We eventually stopped searching the rocks and sand and took a seat on some driftwood to watch the sun set behind a couple stacks. Stone teased the ocean, stating that the waves couldn’t catch him as they receded – only to have him sprinting back as the next wave quickly rushed him. He probably did this for an hour. An older man that had walked down to the beach at the same time as us laughed as he noticed Stone goofily screaming and running through the rocks and foam. He had come down to watch the sunset along with a handful of other people. He was very kind and we made sure to keep an eye on each other as the light started to fade. We had to travel through numerous piles of logs and driftwood to get back to the trail that led to the parking lot. And we don’t ever want folks to feel lost and alone while they are out experiencing this beauty.
Stone and I stayed on the beach until the last curve of the sun dipped below the horizon, causing the sky to flash in tones of orange, pink, and violet. I will admit, it is hard for me to keep my eyes on the road when there is a sunset occurring. It’s like every second shifts to a new color or pattern or light. And it’s honestly mesmerizing to me. I remember watching sunsets with my dad at places like Mt. Nebo or Mt Magazine in Arkansas and they were always pretty. But the actual feeling of experiencing a sunset didn’t hit me until I was an adult and could slow down to appreciate it. It might sound bizarre, but I most appreciate the times when I feel so small compared to the earth or the expanse of the ocean. One time I tried to explain it to my boss like it’s both terrifying and freeing. Like you know your life in the ever expanding sense of space and time is really nothing. It’s not even a blip or a speck. And at the same time, it’s a reminder that your life is so precious and so short that you should make good use of it. Love people freely and say it often. Watch all the sunsets because no two are ever the same. Cuddle even longer on the couch with your kid or read an extra 1 or 2 or 5 bedtime stories. And not to get too metaphysical, with a life that is so short, but you are also so much of an impact for the people and places around you. We can create peace and we can create trauma. We create art that has visceral, emotional weight 100 to 1,000 to 35,000 years after it’s been completed. We share 95% of our composition with the stars.
Life is rad and shitty and wonderful. Go watch more sunsets….
