I have been living in the PNW for just over 14 years now. Wow…that feels so weird to type. I moved out here after I graduated college in 2006. Basically on a whim. In all that time, I had never gone to actually SEE Mount St Helens. Lawetlat’la to the Indigenous Cowlitz people, Mount St Helens is that famous stratovolcano in Skamania County that erupted on May 18, 1980. The eruption resulted in 57 deaths and the destruction of 250 homes, 47 bridges, 15 miles of railways, and 185 miles of highway. She is still active to this day.
My roommate and I decided that the drive in less than ideal weather conditions would be worth it. We left mid-morning for Johnston Ridge Observatory, located at the end of Hwy 504, 52 miles east of the town of Castle Rock, WA. The observatory is in the heart of the blast zone, offering full views of the horse shoe crater left by the blast. Before leaving town, we gassed up and made sure we had all used the bathroom before driving. Most places do not have public bathrooms due to COVID. Stone has gotten very comfortable with peeing in any situation now. It’s a bit different when you’re a 5’10” female bodied individual. Side note: I swear I am buying a she-wee. You can look that up on your own time.
Online information stated that the visitors center was closed but the plaza and short hike were still open. We arrived at the Coldwater Ridge Visitor Center which was partially open. The gift shop and restrooms were available and wearing masks was required to enter. They also had a large container of hand sanitizer at both entrances and exits for visitors to use. Stone and I browsed the gifts, making sure to not touch everything. This is nearly an impossible feat for a 3 year old but he managed. We picked out two postcards to send to my mom, a chocolate huckleberry bar, and a stuffed raccoon for Stone. They also had one of those machines that flattens pennies and stamps an image. We had to get one of those and some ash (which is probably just fucking sand) in a jar for my partner. He collects those pennies which I find absolutely adorable.
After leaving the visitor center, we soon discovered that the road to Johnston Observatory was actually closed. Gated even. We stopped at the trailhead parking lot for Hummocks Trail #229 and decided to give it a try. The parking lot was almost full, with maybe two or three spots open to park. Hummocks Trail is a 2.4 mile loop, perfect for a day hike and for little legs. The hummocks are actually massive pieces of Mount St Helens that slid off as the north flank collapsed. This eventually settled into the Toutle River Valley. Much of the area is still recuperating from the blast so it’s important to stay on the trail and respect the habitat. Also, for this same reason, bikes and pets are not allowed.
About half a mile in, we came to an opening were a few families were taking a break, eating snacks, and letting the kids wander. Stone and I snapped a quick selfie with St Helens in the distance. I wish the clouds had cleared because this would have been a great sight. From this point you can continue on Boundary Trail #1 just over four miles to the observatory. We saw a few hikers head that way, none with children though. Given the cloud cover and Stone’s experience level (he is still three after all), we decided to continue on the Hummocks.
For roughly the first half, the landscape was open, providing views of the mountain as well as the river valley. As we progressed, we hiked into fields of wildflowers and alderwood forests covered in ferns and nettles. Even though the skies had been cloudy with rain on the drive up, by the afternoon the sun was out and beating down on us. The shade was a nice respite. But I guess not enough cause I actually got a sun burn on my shoulders. Oops. This is me saying always take sun screen! Do as I say and not as I do cause I’m the worst when it comes to that stuff.
Some areas were muddy and overgrown, but the trail was still easy to navigate. Stone actually was our lead person for the entire hike….with me randomly telling him to speed up or stop running. There is no in between with that kid.
We didn’t see much wildlife except for many of these forest tent caterpillars. The nerd in me did some reading after we got back to discover that these caterpillars will eventually turn into pretty plain looking brown moths that you commonly see. These caterpillars apparently are social creatures, travelling together to feed on leaves at night, rest during the day, and protect themselves from predators such as birds. They also form those silk thread nests you see in the trees as they start the molting process. They also only do this once every decade or so. Nature is bizarre….
We finished up our hike and relaxed at the car for a snack break. I may forget sunblock, but I always remember snacks. Stone eats like a teenager some days. We figured we had time to check out one more stop before calling it a day and driving back to Olympia. A quick drive down from the Hummocks parking lot, there is the Birth of a Lake trail. This is a short paved walk with a few boardwalk viewpoints, stroller and wheelchair friendly. The trail borders the Coldwater Lake, a lake that was formed when an eruption debris avalanche dammed the Coldwater Creek. You can kayak and fish in the lake as long as you are using an electric boat motor or yours arms to get around.
We had a quick trip back home. Stone didn’t fall asleep which was both surprising and annoying. Some times you just want some chill time you know? We didn’t stop anywhere on our way back. A full tank of gas got us down and back easily. I should mention that I have been making it a point to not stop in small towns, both for my safety and the safety of towns people. With an invisible virus that has affected millions of families as well as current events and administration emboldening some people to fully come out with their hateful ways, it seems better this way. As I start writing here more, I decided to commit to writing both about the trail itself and the people and views on the trail and surrounding areas. It probably comes as a huge surprise to some, but the outdoors is not a safe space for BIPOC. Even more so, the small towns surrounding the outdoors. And while I am not Black and cannot testify to any Black person’s experience, I can testify to my own as a biracial person. Asians owe so much of their presence in this country to the Black struggle for freedom and equality. The same systems that keep us down may look different in our communities, but it’s still the same fucking system. And for every time a person in a small town stares at me or follows me, I know the situation would be astronomically more tense for a Black person.
So here’s to both hitting the trails and breaking down the system…step by step.
