My supervisor told me about a weekend camping trip she took this summer at Mt. Rainier, a place called Ohanapecosh. I have always wanted to go there but for some reason or another never did. After she painted this peaceful scene with smores and joints around the campfire, I seriously looked into a spot. But I was out of luck. Ohanapecosh was booked until the fall. At that point, it’s first come first serve and nothing is worse than driving over 2 hours to find yourself sleeping in the car on the side of the road cause camp is full. Speaking from personal experience in Montana. That shit was probably not my safest decision.
I searched further and discovered La Wis Wis Campground right outside the southwest boundary of Mt. Rainier National park. I took a chance and booked a campsite along the Cowlitz River for Sunday night. We arrived to the Stevens Canyon entrance of the park after a slow departure, a fully involved moving truck fire on I-5, and just over 2 hours of driving on Hwy 12 East. Since the camp site check time was 4pm, I figured we could hike a couple short trails before going to our campsite. The first was top was the Grove of the Patriarchs, a 1.2 mile trail that leads to a suspension bridge and an island of old growth western red cedars, Douglas firs, and western hemlocks. Barely a quarter mile into the trail, there is a side trail to go down to the Ohanapecosh River. We ventured down to admire the view and the crystal clear water. I thought I had grown out of my clumsy phase, but that was a lie. As I walked along the edge of the water on the rocks, I stepped up onto a large piece of driftwood not noticing a smaller, sharp piece of wood. That one stick punctured my right foot. I brushed it off thinking it was just a scratch and continued walking. Within a handful of steps I noticed that I was leaving a trail of blood as is pooled in my sandals. I used a cloth mask to wrap my foot so we could walk back to the car and clean out my wound and properly bandage it. Note: always carry a first aid kit (failure on my part) and watch where you step. I’m not gonna hate on hiking in sandals cause many do it and often. I’ve even hiked barefoot on several occasions with no issues.
It’s now been 2 weeks since this happened, and my foot is finally past the swollen gross phase and into the deep scab phase. I need this to heal a *bit* quicker so I can get in a few training hikes.
After the patch job, we decided to take it easy on the hiking and instead drive up to Sunrise via State Route 123. As we drove up Sunrise Road, the view became more and more unreal. Small peaks leading up to this massive megalithic peak assembled by hundreds of lava flows and carved by glaciers. Extra tip: you can download a geology audio tour from the parks website that will teach you the geology of the area as you drive. It also includes an audio tour of the glaciers and moraines visible from the Emmons Glacier Overlooks if you choose to take the short walk to the overlook. I suggest downloading before leaving your home and phone service is spotty at best in the park.
We stopped at Sunrise Point to get a full 360 degree view of the land and take all the photos.
From Sunrise Point, you get stunning views of both the mountain and Sunrise lake. You can also see Mt. Adams (Pahto and Klickitat) to the south and Mt. Baker (Kulshan) to the north. We could also see the Schneider Springs Fire, a wildfire burning to the southeast of the park. As of 9/10/21, the fire is now a megafire, consuming 101,633 acres and only 17% contained. The community outside our campsite area was actually listed at a level 2 evacuation when we arrived to Sunrise. I knew this going in to our trip and had a plan to pack as little as possible for the trip, know all our evacuation routes, and keep a clean camp in case we needed to evacuate quickly. First time I have had to plan for a fire evacuation, but fairly certain it will not be the last time. I even packed a fire blanket in case. Not that I imagine it would have done much good if everything was consumed by fire.
The Indigenous name for Mt. Rainier is Tacoma or Tahoma, Təqʷuʔməʔ pronounced “Taquoma” in Twulshootseed. The Puyallup tribe is currently launching efforts to change the mountain’s name back to it’s rightful name. Təqʷuʔməʔ translates into “the mother of all waters” and serves as a central cultrual landmark and entity for local tribes. For them, the mountain provides all life. The waters flow from the mountain to provide water for berries and the trees and provide habitat for fish.
The mountain was called Təqʷuʔməʔ since time immemorial. That is until 1792 when Europeans arrived and the English Captain George Vancouver named it after his friend, British Navy Admiral Peter Rainier. It feels…well like all land of Indigenous peoples in the Americas….stolen. There is a disconnect that happens in changing the Indigenous name to a random person that never set foot in this land – a disconnect to what the mountain has meant for thousands of years to its stewards and a disconnect for us now as we witness its greatness without understanding its full importance and status in this ecosystem. This is the land of the Cowlitz, Muckleshoot, Nisqually, Puyallup, Squaxin Island, and Yakama people. And you can’t tell me otherwise. And if you visit here, you should respect that and acknowledge it. You’re standing on sacred, breathing land.
We continued our drive up Sunrise Road until we made it to the visitor center. Park facilities were still closed due to the pandemic, with the exception of bathrooms. We all took a bathroom break before walking the various trails around the center. You didn’t have to go far to find wildflowers in different stages of life, like the seed pods of the western anemone or purple alpine aster still in bloom.
Sunrise is already at an elevation of 6400 feet, the highest point you can reach by vehicle in the park. A short walk on the Sunrise Nature Trail provided us with spectacular views of Rainier and the Emmons Glacier. Also at the visitor center, you can access several trailheads – Sourdough Ridge Trail, Fremont Lookout Trail, and Burroughs Mountain Trail – all which I plan to do in the near future before the weather changes in Washington. With the afternoon sun slowly descending on the landscape, we made our way back to the car and down to our campsite at La Wis Wis Campground.
We made it to our site with enough time to explore our space, set up our tents, and make dinner before it got too dark. I will be real with you, I forgot to take more photos of the camp site because it was so beautiful. We had plenty of space for two tents with more space for probably two to three more tents. Our site had a picnic table to sit and enjoy our meals or chat. We also had a fire ring but were not able to have a camp fire due to the burn ban. Instead, we were allowed a propane stove to prepare our meals.
I unpacked my tent and *air mattress* from the car and our sleeping area was ready in no time. I decided to splurge on an air mattress from Target because it was only $16 without the battery operated air pump. I borrowed one from a friend for the trip. As I have gotten older, I have learned that sometimes it’s really nice to live in a little luxury in the woods. Hot coffee, a good book, an air mattress, maybe a hammock by the river….these are all easy things to bring to make your camp more comfortable.
At the back of our campsite, you could walk past a protective log and down to the Cowlitz River. Sara took Stone to the river to throw rocks and gather sticks, his usual outdoor past time. I walked down after them, taking my time to soak in the scenery. The Cowlitz River system actually begins at the Cowlitz Glacier and Ingraham Glacier, two glaciers that merge to create a single stream of ice that flows down into the Middle Fork Cowlitz River valley. Glacial melt forms the Cowlitz River proper, one of the longest stream systems in the Cascade Range. This river system flows southwest for over 100 miles eventually dumping into the Columbia River and then the Pacific Ocean. Equally amazing is the thought that this river system is the number one winter steelhead stream in Washington. The river produces upwards of 30,000 steelhead a season. One can only imagine what that number would be if we had not ruined the natural process of the river by building three major hydroelectric dams and several small-scale hydropower and sediment retention structures. I recommend watching Patagonia’s “Damnation” to gain more insight on the ecological problems we created in the name of progress. The story of Celilo Falls still upsets me. There’s something to be said for that phrase “we borrow the earth from our children”.
After a dinner of hot dogs and random items, we started to get ready for bed. I pumped up the air mattress and got Stone into his cozy pajamas. He is at this in between stage in sizing, too big for toddler footie pajamas and not quite big enough for the big kid ones. We tried with these in an XS, and even though they are baggy, they served their purpose to keep him warm when the temperature dropped.
I cleaned up all our food items in camp and organized them in the car. I have been training Stone to understand how important it is to keep camp and out space outside clean. Aside from making sure that we are not damaging the areas by littering or polluting water sources, we also want to avoid any wild animal contact. Bears are scary. And ground squirrels will demolish all your packs and tent to get some oats or dehydrated meals. As we made out way into the tent, it wasn’t quite cold. I was dressed in sweats and was still warm enough to lay down with just a blanket. But as the night progressed, the temp dropped quickly. Thankfully I had my sleeping bag was in the tent with us so I could easily zip it open and climb inside. My friend sold me this sleeping bag over a year ago, but I had not chance to make use of it (once again pandemic problems). It’s a mummy style women’s long REI bag rated for 30 degrees. I’m almost tempted to get one rated for 0 to -20. I will have to wait for a good sale for one of those. Stone was perfectly content sleeping in his onesie with the fleece blanket. Once I was wrapped up in my sleeping bag, it was warm enough to fall back asleep until the sunrise at 6am.
Morning was chilly and grey, but not unbearable. I woke up with Stone cuddled up next to me, still wrapped in his blanket. Breakfast was a quick cup of peanut butter oats with chocolate chips. Stone opted for a nut butter bar and some fruit. After eating, we packed up our camp, I fully wrapped my foot, and we planned to go back to the Grove of the Patriarchs to finish out the whole hike. I knew there was a suspension bridge that Stone would love. He is my kid after all….and I love jumping on suspension bridges. My favorite one so far is the suspension bridge on the Lava Canyon Trail in the Gifford Pinchot. I will need to do that trail again soon.
Stone led the way, crawling under fallen trees and climbing on root structures. This is also the first time hiking that he has asked me to read the interpretive signs to him. The trail has metal informational signs posted that describe the main types of trees on the trail and how you can identify them through their bark texture, needles, and cones. Stone got a kick out of learning how I identify Douglas fir cones by looking for the “squirrel butts” in the cones. It looks like two legs and a tail sticking out of the cone, as if they are digging their way inside to harvest the seeds. It seems silly, but I swear it works for me!
As we continued on, the trees got taller and wider. We passed a fallen tree that had been split, separating the bark and probably hundreds of years of tree growth on the side of the tree. You could see where people had slid down the bark because it was smooth to the touch, not splintered or rough. I didn’t let Stone slide down though. In another life, maybe. But in this one, I specifically remember a classmate in my 2nd grade class that slid down this wooden slide we had on our school playground. She got a 1.5 inch long splinter in her upper thigh/butt area. and it was like 1/4 of an inch thick. So no….not at all. I still remember her name. They pulled up the slide and made it into a climbing wall after that incident.
About half way through the trail, we reached the suspension bridge. We had to take turns going down and back since the park recommends one person crossing at a time. We thankfully got there with fewer people so we were able to take our time walking across and taking photos. And yes, Stone jumped to his heart’s content on the bridge. I may bring him back in spring so we can see the river at full force. It was pretty low but still beautiful where we crossed.
The bridge crosses over the Ohanapecosh river and onto an island of these ancient giants. Some trees are over 1000 years in age and some reach over 30 to 40 feet in circumference and 300 feet in height. For reference, the tallest tree in the world is “Hyperion”, a 380 foot coast redwood in the Redwood National and State Parks. Its exact location is secret which I find hilarious cause it’s the tallest tree in the world but so remote you can’t find it.
The firs, cedars, and hemlocks on the island owe their growth to both the moisture in this area and their protection from fires. Considering these trees are upwards of 1000 years old, that would mean that they have been around since the 11th century. To put that into perspective, the major events of the 11th century were the decline of the Byzantine empire and rise of the Normans in Europe, the high point for both classical Chinese civilization and science and classical Islamic science, philosophy, and literature, the first of The Crusades, and the flourishing Toltec and Mississippian cultures of the Americas. These trees are like silent guardians of the past, holding secrets of ancestors and the natural world. They contain centuries of knowledge about water levels and the vitality of the forest. Their rings can tell you about climate patterns, when droughts occurred, and how these climates may have affect peoples of the past. They also teach us that in death, there is rebirth and sustenance. Throughout old growth forests, you will be trees that have fallen and become nurse logs. These nurse logs provide the necessary nutrients for seedlings to germinate.
Yeah….I told you these places are sacred.
We took our photos with the massive cedars before returning to the trailhead. Note, I typically don’t “hug” trees like this. If a tree is covered in lichen and moss and fungi, it is best to leave it be since there’s a whole micro ecosystem that you could damage. Also, the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail can get crowded, especially on weekends in the summertime. If you are cool with walking into a mythical-like forest with dozens of others, this trail will do well for you. If you would rather explore other old growth forests that may have fewer crowds, here’s a list of several in Washington State. Since it’s where I am located for the time being, it’s the list I have. But I am sure a google search with your state and “old growth forest” would bring you a few options:
- North Fork Sauk River
- Harold Engles Memorial Cedar Grove
- Boulder River Trail
- Indian Creek Trail and White River Trail
- Huckleberry Creek Trail
- Cedar Flats
- Lewis River Trail
- Hoh Rainforest River Trail
- South Fork Hoh River Trail
- Bogachiel Rainforest River Trail
We returned to the car and had a quick snack break with trail mix, goldfish, dried chili mangos, and water. From the grove, we traveled to the Ohanepecosh campground for the Silver Falls trailhead. The trail starts in the B loop of the campground. We started on a paved path, gradually gaining elevation. Stone noticed there were several interpretive signs on the trail that discussed slugs and their natural habitat. I was hoping we would see a banana slug. The Pacific banana slug is the second largest terrestrial slug growing to lengths of 9.5 inches. Stone kept asking where they all were hiding and what they eat. My best thought was that they were hanging out at home eating leaves. While in reality, banana slugs are decomposers so they eat dead plant material, leaves, moss, animal droppings, and (their favorite) mushrooms. By eating their natural diet, these slugs contribute to the nutrients necessary for their ecosystem. Stone assumed these slugs had a fridge to store all their plants and leaves. And that was how my next tattoo idea was born – a banana slug searching their fridge for leaves and mushrooms.
We took a short detour to the Ohanapecosh Hot Springs. There isn’t much here in the way of hot springs you can soak in. It’s more of a small reminder that you are in a volcanic region. These hot springs were once a resort between the 1920s and 1963. In 1921, the US Forest Service issued a permit for developers to build a hotel and bath houses that would eventually become two hotels and several bath houses. In 1960, the concession contracts were terminated and the National Park Service removed all the buildings and concessions from this space to return it to its natural state. Now, there’s not enough water present to bathe or even dip more than a foot in. We found a little pool, and I encouraged Stone to put his hand in the water.
“It’s like bath water!”
We all laughed and made our way back to the main trail for Silver Falls. One day I will explain to him in more detail how geothermal processes work. But he has a good understanding after going to Yellowstone and watching “Octonauts: Above and Beyond”.
Maybe a mile in, we neared the falls, hearing the rush of water before even seeing the falls. We were all in awe, and Sara verbalized how we were feeling with a steady stream of “holy shit…holy shit…holy shit” as we got closer to the view point. The water passes over a series of ledges before falling 40 feet into the blue pool below. At this time of year, the trail was very dry with no overspray. I can imagine that in the spring and early summer, this water fall is raging and would result in some muddy and slippery conditions. Parents, keep your kids close when it comes to waterfalls. Make sure you have a good eye and a good grip on them, especially if it is slick.
When we got back to the trail head, we stopped at the bathrooms then walked to the road bridge over the Ohanapecosh River. It was the perfect, relaxing way to end the trail. While we watched the river, Stone talked to a few people that walked by with fishing gear. I was imagining taking the little dude fly fishing when he gets a little bigger…..and salmon fishing so we can learn to smoke salmon.
We stopped in Packwood to get an energy boost at The Mountain Goat Coffee Company. I ordered a chai for Sara and an oat milk hazelnut latte for myself. While waiting to order, I also grabbed a bag of their whole bean Tatoosh Blend coffee for my French press at home. I really need to start making coffee at home more. As I walked out of the coffee shop, a woman randomly ran in with a copy of Sunset magazine stating that they were featured in a story. I’m guessing it probably had something to do with places to stop by while hiking the Pacific Crest Trail. Packwood could be a potential town stop for folks hiking from White Pass to Chinook Pass. I even saw thru hiker packs just chilling in the sun in their outdoor seating area. Those folks are so bad ass. There’s not much lodging but there are several spots to eat and get coffee or local drinks and gifts.
As per usual small town WA, Packwood isn’t known for its diversity aside from the few people of color that are visiting the park. I have always known that the drive to Rainier via Hwy 12 is full of questionable people and your full on white supremacist assholes. While I taught at Chief Leschi, I learned very quickly which schools and areas were the worst ones on away games. *Looking at you Raymond and South Bend* Our HS boys basketball team played Morton-White Pass one year for the first round of district playoffs for state. Morton-White Pass was rated number one in the state in our 2B class. Those were not high school students. Those were grown ass men with beards built like lumberjacks. It was also the first time I witnessed a rural white boy dunk. Not to hate on them, it was just not what I grew up around in central Arkansas. Those games in rural areas were always so tense. There were fights between parents, verbal altercations, and worries that the gun rack in the back of the truck was there for more than bucks. I remember once we had to have police escort our team safely to the bus after the game and then out of town. Still looking at you South Bend.
And I don’t write these things lightly. They did happen and it’s a reality that 100% of people of color have and still do experience, especially Black and brown people. I am very privileged to be able to travel relatively safely due to being white passing and knowing how to code switch. I won’t go into being female bodied and travelling cause that is a whole other intersectional story. I hope one day I get to see different faces on the trail and in these towns. And if you want more information on this topic, I would suggest checking out these books as a start. There are also several Instagram accounts that have done the work for you. But please don’t go on there just to cause a scene and talk about how uncomfortable you are with another person’s truth. That’s not their responsibility. *wink*
